Laid Back Lisbon To Soothing Sintra

Laid back Lisbon

 On my way to someplace else in Portugal, I sped through Lisbon like a race car driver.

 

 

 

A classic trolley in Lisbon

A classic way to go

Of course I knew I should spend more time in Lisbon. After all, Portugal’s capital city is supercharged with history and cool places to hang loose. To willfully skip Lisbon would be a huge dumb travel move. It would be like traveling across Italy and closing your eyes through Rome. All along I never intended to bypass Lisbon, no way. It was simply my intention to get back and give the city, in due time  its due time. But for that moment, for a variety of reasons, the beacons of other cities sparkled a tad brighter. So off I went to places such as Guarda, Porto, Lagos, Albufeira, Faro, Portimao, Cascais, Parede, Guincho Beach, Seville – towns big and small, stretching across the Iberian peninsula.

One of those cities was Sintra. Sintra is a town blessed with a myriad of medieval castles that date back to the 8th or 9th Century, including the imposing Castle of the Moors built on a looming hilltop with a downward panoramic view of the city. I had made it from Guarda, a semi-rural region near the border with Spain, west to Paredes on the coast, where I stayed with a Portuguese family with whom I’ve now forged a friendship. Early on, they recommended I visit Sintra and offered me a bicycle for what should have been an hour-long journey along city streets. But I failed miserably in my first attempt to reach Sintra on two wheels. I ended up way off course, facing a major highway. Bicycles are not allowed on highways in many European countries, Portugal included. So I spent most of my journey, which turned in to several hours, trying to get around the highway, with every person I asked giving different directions and instructions to breach the motorway and reach Sintra.

When you come to Lisbon, buy one of these. It's a 3-day tourist pass for unlimited travel on the train. Cost: 14 €.

When you come to Lisbon, buy one of these. It’s a 3-day tourist pass for unlimited travel on the train. Cost: 14 €.

While some said it was impossible to reach the medieval city by bicycle from my location, others suggested that it was too dangerous, too far or too steep a climb up and over the mountains. But experience has taught me that locals often will say that a place is too far or too risky or too whatever because they think a foreigner is not cut of the stuff to handle a trek even if the traveler says he or she does

Portugal is the world's top producer of cork, so stuff made of cork is easy to find. Everything you see here is from cork, including her clothes and the umbrella. Clever, no?

Portugal is the world’s top producer of cork, so stuff made of cork is easy to find. Everything you see here is from cork, including her clothes and the umbrella. Clever, no?

not mind the long or uphill or even arduous walk. If  I were given a penny every time I heard some place was too far to walk, I’d be a wealthy man.  Still, as darkness loomed, I gave up and returned to Paredes without having seen Sintra. My gracious hosts seemed more disappointed than me. They knew the magic I had missed in Sintra, and several months later I would come to realize that. Sintra, with its rich history of conquerors, invaders and rulers, chief among them the Moors, also draws thousands of tourists each year interested in its Masonic history. Like the Moors, who ruled the Iberian peninsula for more than 500 hundreds, they left their mark on the landscape, with beautiful gardens and castles.

Recently, I  paid another visit to my friends in Paredes. Paredes is a coastal town very close to Cascais, Sintra and Lisbon. I made it my mission to see Lisbon and Sintra on this particular trip. But first, Lisbon.

I arrived in Lisbon from Lagos, Portugal, located in the southern region of Portugal known as the Algarve, by ride share arranged through Blablacar. Lagos is a Portuguese fishing town that explodes with tourists in summer. It is served by all major transports, including an international airport in the town of Faro.

If you are ever in Europe, I highly recommend Blablacar, a car ride share that is often faster, cheaper and more convenient than public transportation. Soon as I arrived in Lisbon, I purchased a 3-day tourist rail pass that allowed me unlimited travel on the train that links outer communities to Lisbon.

At the Moorish Castle in must-see Sintra, Portugal. In the background, the grand Pena National Palace.

At the Moorish Castle in must-see Sintra, Portugal. In the background, the grand Pena National Palace.

Unfortunately, the pass does not extend to the metro trains, buses or streetcars. For those you have to buy a separate pass or ticket. But for me, the commuter train pass worked just fine. It allowed me to reach distance cities, such as Cascais, and I would easily get around Lisbon by walking or buying a metro ticket if necessary. I was getting around by commuter train more than anything else. You have to choose what transport option works best for you. The express bus from Lagos to Lisbon is 20 euros during peak season and runs every hour several hours a day. Portugal is well-served by public transportation but it is not always convenient as far as time schedule and cost. Do your homework.

And so on my first real visit to Lisbon I went, recalling during my 3 hour journey on the bus how I had spent my first time in Lisbon at the foot of a bridge trying to hitchhike south to Lagos. On my second visit, I never even stopped, marveling at the longest bridge in Europe, the Vasco de Gama Bridge, which spans the Tagus River. This bridge, which was inaugurated in 1998, is 17.2 kilometers, or 10.2 miles long, and it will blow your mind when you begin to realize how long you’ve been on it trying to get to the other side. It’s just one of the cool things Lisbon serves up. The city, once ruled by the Romans, also has an aqueduct that survived an earthquake and tsunami that destroyed the city in 1755.

I thoroughly enjoyed Lisbon, but the thing that struck me the most was how laid back, patient and helpful residents are with tourists. They stop and take their time to give directions, to help, unlike some other European capitals. It was refreshing.

From Lisbon, there’s a direct train to Sintra. The Viva pass works on this line. There are buses as well, from other coastal cities. One option is to go to Cascais, spend some time there on the beach or having a nice lunch or walkabout, then hop on a bus to Sintra. Some buses make a slight detour to the most western part of continental Europe, Cabo da Roca.

The Moorish Castle in Sintra

The Moorish Castle in Sintra

The southwesternmost point of mainland Europe – Cabo San Vicente near the city of Sagres – is also in Portugal. I can now claim I’ve been to as far west and as far southwest point of mainland Europe. Now, keen on the southernmost. That would be Punta de Tarifa, Spain.

From the moment I arrived in Sintra I felt an inexplicable sense of joy. The city has a zen vibe that soothes the soul. Yes, there are thousands of tourists walking about, but it doesn’t feel overrun.

It is nestled in the Sintra Mountains and Cascais-Sintra Nature Park, with beautiful architecture that goes back centuries, and several castles built on hilltops.

Queen Beach in Cascais

Queen Beach in Cascais

Some of the most impressive castles in the world are here, including Pena National Palace, which was the summer residence of Portugal’s  monarchs of Portugal during the 18th to 19th centuries. There are a total of seven palaces in Sintra, all worth a visit. Ask for a special discounted fare if you decide to see at least three of them.

In the city center you will find local foods, including traditional regional  pastries. Tourists and locals line up to buy them at local shops. Don’t get sucked in by tourists traps, however. You will pay more if you don’t go to the spot, Cafe a Piriquita, for the tasty pastries, including queijadas de Sintra. You might have to take a number and wait, but it’s well worth it. The queijadas look like small custard tarts, but are cheesecakes with a healthy dash of cinnamon in a crusty outer shell. I bought a dozen. But by far my favorite Sintra pastry was the one known as travesseiros, the Portuguese word for pillow. These desserts with a dusting of sugar and a creamy filling inside are heavenly, especially served warm. I couldn’t stop eating them. In Portugal you will find that most towns have a dessert all their own, including Lisbon, but in my opinion, none come as close to perfection as the ones from Sintra. Get to Sintra, have a coffee and a pastry, it will complete your day.

Below, Sintra seen from the Moorish Castle. Quite a climb to get here, but buses deliver those who choose not to walk.

Below, Sintra seen from the Moorish Castle. Quite a climb to get here, but buses deliver those who choose not to walk.

 

 

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Playful Dolphins Come In Waves Off The Coast of Portugal

dolphin

I’ve done my share of whale watching tours.

Unless you own a boat or have friends who own a boat, your options are limited to get out on the open ocean to see these magnificent mammals in their natural environment.

But let’s be honest. Like me, you could probably do without being loaded like cattle onto a boat where you will spend the next two hours with new parents struggling with strollers, youngsters wildly running

 about the ship’s deck, messy food in their little hands, with minimal supervision, rowdy, half-drunk 20-somethings still drinking the beers they sneaked aboard; loud, obnoxious teenagers trying to one-up each other with foolish antics; iPad-toting seniors baffled by the technology and trying to figure out how to take pictures with the device yet blocking others from the best shots. So it is.

I try to go it alone whenever and wherever I can, but crowds often come with the travel turf. You just have to bring your patience.

With Zuka, the dolphin-spotting Portuguese water dog, aboard the Days Of Adventure

With Zuka, the dolphin-spotting Portuguese water dog, aboard the Days Of Adventure

An opportunity came my way to see dolphins outside of an aquarium and although the chosen tour company stated emphatically that there were no guarantees, they also stressed that the chances of seeing dolphins were good to excellent.

So off we went.

From Lagos, Portugal, I took the boat to see common dolphins on the vast Atlantic Ocean.

I was not disappointed.

Less than an hour out to sea, we – or should I say, Zuka the dolphin-spotting Portuguese water dog aboard – spotted countless dolphins feeding. (He barks in the direction of the pod to alert the boat crew).

Soon we were surrounded by dolphins. Like pets, the dolphins came to us, curious creatures that they are, some taking advantage of the boat’s wake to surf. They apparently love the waves.

Others swam right alongside the boat or darted under. In pairs, they seemed to be dancing with each other, happy and free.

Each time the boat picked up speed to leave, the dolphins also stepped up their pace and swam faster to keep up with the boat.

They seemed as curious about us as we were about them and also appeared to enjoy the visit just as much as us humans enjoyed seeing them.

 Out of Lagos, dozens of tour companies offer dolphin and whale watching tours. The two-hour tours include a cruise along the coastal cliffs, but the boats are too large to actually go inside. For that you have to hire smaller vessels, which charge between 10 and 15 euros. Prices for the dolphin tours vary and also depend on the season. Still, they are worthwhile.

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Feria! Seville Shines During the Annual Celebration

hatsoff

 

I love a good celebration. And one that showcases a heritage of skilled horsemanship, good eating and fine spirits, well, even more.

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In the weeks following Easter, cities and towns across Spain put on festivals that highlight food, music, dance and of course regional pride.

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Recently, it was Seville’s turn. And the city did not disappoint the thousands of spectators and participants who turned out

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Despite the scorching temperatures. That’s  44 Celsius, or 111 degrees Fahrenheit

shade

But I managed to find a way to keep cool 

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Alcala

Took a break from all the fun in Sevilla and ventured to Alcala, at one time the place that baked Seville’s bread

tunnel

Found some interesting things there, such as this tunnel that runs deep below the surface of a fortress castle built by the Moors.  I was warned by a couple of locals not to venture in because all sorts of hidden dangers lurk within its darkness. They were not specific when pressed. Maybe dragons? There is a dragon bridge nearby.

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What, you didn’t believe?

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